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Masterchef has returned for its twelfth season. This season is an ‘all stars’ seasons; the contestants are all former contestants with the only qualification being that they can not have previously won a season of Channel 10’s hit cooking competition.

There has been much speculation that the show may have lost some of its wide appeal following the departure of long-time judging trio Gary, Matt and George. The three opted not to return to the show following a contract dispute and so viewers were greeted with three fresh faces this season.

As a huge Masterchef fan, I was a bit sceptical that the sense of warmth and familiarity would be maintained in the absence of the three outsized personalities who had been there since the shows more humble beginnings. As such, the producers have pulled off a masterstroke (no pun intended) in bringing back familiar and in many cases beloved former contestants; a smart way to establish a through-line from the show’s original iterations to its present.

So far, the three new judges are, if to varying degrees, excellent. Andy Allen’s, himself the season four winner, laconic style leaves a bit to be desired but the trio of Andy, Jock Zonfrillo (head chef of Adelaide’s own Orana restaurant) and food writer Melissa Leong have managed to channel the comforting energy of the previous judges. There is a bit of a incongruence at times with Andy in particular appearing somewhat less, at least publicly, successful than some of the contestants (Adelaide’s own Poh Ling Yeow the obvious example), but ultimately the, dare I say it ,vibe, is still just right.

On early indications, ratings for this season are much improved on previous years. That makes sense. During these extraordinary, uncertain and often scary times, I can think of nothing more comforting than good food and good company. Masterchef has always been excellent in delivering both, and has been doing it virtually for a lot longer than we have all been living our lives that way.